Lots of Kilometres, Little Weight Loss

51 weeks to go. I have clocked up over 1700 kms this year, so far.

A bit tired after suddenly (following our return from New Zealand and 3 weeks in transit) lurching into 100+ kms weeks again, and also the return to very hilly terrain with lots of climbing.

The weather has been reasonably kind, despite conflicting and usually incorrect forecasts, so I have managed to get out every day this week without too much discomfort.

I remain amazed that all this walking, all the kilometres covered, and all the calories expended, seem to have made zero difference to my weight. I don't particularly want to lose a lot of weight but I would have expected to do so, especially as there has been no increase in food input. A friend was telling me only last night that she had been told that walking, slow and steady aerobic exercise, is the best way to lose weight. My evidence is all against that.

Stacked Shoes

This morning's walk was 17 kms. 7 kms via the trails over the plain, to the turning point in Nebias, 10 kms back through the woods and past the castle. The return involving a sharp climb to well over 600 metres before the descent to the house at 500 metres.

I have two pairs of Columbia Trailmeister IV shoes on the go at the moment. I mentioned on December 30 2008 that I was keeping a record of the distance covered by one pair. At the time they had done 1,000 kms. Now that same pair have done more than 1,250 kms, which with my small strides means they have covered 1,562,500 steps.

It seems that two pairs would get me through VBW, but I shall be taking 3 pairs with me to cover contingencies.

Unfortunately, these shoes are not available in Europe, but, as mentioned previously, I managed to stock up with a couple of pairs while we were in USA over the period of Obama's election. I also intended to get another pair in New Zealand earlier this year. In fact I did buy a pair. When I was walking away from the shop I noticed that the receipt showed only half the price I had seen on the display. So I went back, thinking they had undercharged me. "Did you not see the sign saying 50% off?" said the man. I had not, but immediately ordered another 3 pairs.

Even though these had to come from the Columbia warehouse, I still got them for half price. Bearing in mind that these shoes are somewhat like a running shoe, with all the built in cushioning, but with a stronger sole and top, and yet they are substantially cheaper than a running shoe (since these became fashion items for kids), to get them at half price is a real bargain. And it means that, as well as the two pairs I have on the go right now, I also have 5 more untouched pairs stacked up. I shall probably get through at least two of those 5 pairs before the walk starts.

I Know Where I'm Going ...

In yesterday's post, I showed a picture of the Chateau de Puivert - Puivert Castle. My home stands in the shadow of the castle, which will therefore be in view when I start VBW.

There is a similar dominant landmark visible from the finishing line of the Big Walk. For the first 17 years of my life I lived in the house in which I was born. The house stands on one of the few hills in Blackpool. So every time I went in or out of the house I could see Blackpool Tower.

The Tower is pictured above. The idea for the tower was born when Blackpool businessman and councillor John Bickerstaffe visited the Great Paris Exhibition in 1889. He saw the Eiffel Tower and thought it would look very nice on Blackpool seafront and would attract many visitors, all eager to spend their money in Blackpool.

Unfortunately, the Eiffel Tower was not for sale so Mr Bickerstaffe and some chums drummed up a committee, then a company, then some finances, some designers, lots of steel and piles of bricks. They set about making a copy of the Eiffel Tower. They were not very ambitious because instead of making a tower bigger and better than the Eiffel, they made a half-size copy, although it did contain a zoo, a circus and a spectacular ballroom in the building which surrounded the base. I was always very impressed with the fact that the design included, in the event of trouble, a bias for the tower to flop into the Irish Sea instead of into the town and onto free-spending holidaymakers.

When I set off on VBW, I shall be saying goodbye, for some months, to Puivert Castle, the symbol of my current home village. Blackpool Tower is visible, because the surrounding area (the Fylde) is mainly flat, for a considerable distance. When I see it looming over my horizon, I shall know that the walk is nearly over and that I shall have done something which no other person on earth has achieved - a walk from my current home to the house of my birth.

The picture above is used courtesy of FreeFoto.com The image reference is 37-01-55

History In The Making

The above picture is of the Chateau de Puivert, visible from our window, and mentioned in Sunday's posting on this blog. The picture is taken from the following website:

http://www.catharcastles.info/120710_puivert.htm

The website will give you much more information about the castle's history. It is open to the public and is well worth a visit.

I managed 111 kms last week, bringing my total for the year to date to 1633 kms. That is more than my probable total mileage for VBW. Although I shall be planning to walk 6 days a week for 10 weeks at 30 kms a day, the shortest possible route will be quite a lot shorter than the total of 1800 kms that would give. I am allowing time for injuries, illness and other delays. Otherwise I shall have plenty of time and kilometres in hand to wander off the direct route to visit places of significance to me (after all, this will be in many ways a walk backwards through my own history.

A Dreadful 800 Year Anniversary

Before I started today's walk home from Quillan, I read in the local newspaper that it is exactly 800 years ago today that the Pope, in his wisdom, declared a crusade against the Bonshommes, the people who are known today as the Cathars. These were members of a peace-loving (sounds as if it should be the mainstream) branch of Christianity. The Cathars were in great numbers in the Languedoc - what is now Southern France - and were perceived as a threat to the Pope's own sect. So, in his wisdom, this (ironically named Innocent!) representative of the Prince of Peace decided to exterminate the Cathars and their numerous followers. The military action went on for decades. Among other measures taken was the invention of the Holy Inquisition (hundreds of years before its Spanish activities).

For most of my walk I could see Puivert castle, because the town, and our abode, stand in the shadow of it. I can see it from one of our windows. So-called "Cathar castles" such as this belonged to local lords who supported the Cathars and tried to protect them (they were slain or dispossessed for their trouble). They are visible reminders of those terrible times, but what about the far more numerous invisible markers? How many of the steps I took today in my 17 kms walk were crossing the paths of marauding armies or fleeing defenders? How many scenes of ancient horror did I pass? How many unmarked graves or long-dead Inquisition fires?

If only the rocks could give up their secret witness.

Oh Happy Day!

The world looks a much brighter place today.

As mentioned, the weather has been miserable since we arrived back in France from New Zealand a week ago.

This morning, as we drove off to the start of our walk, the temperature was a dire 4 degrees Centigrade. But, promisingly, the sky was clear. We climbed down the hill into Quillan, wishing we had brought gloves with us, but they are not the first thing you think of in May. Although I do remember a Maytime soon after we had bought the house when it was 36 one day, 11 the next. But 4!

We had a coffee in our favourite cafe in Quillan. Had a look at the morning press to see what they had to say about the weather. They rarely agree with each other but, miraculously, they both said today would be sunny and warm. One said 18, the other said 21, but good news, nonetheless. Since before lunch, it has been well into the 20s.

We climbed the 300+ metres back up to our car, a strenuous round trip of about 12 kms. As we drove home, the temperature had more than quadrupled (note to pedantic ones - don't write in - I know they are not absolute temperatures) to 17.

The grass was dry enough to mow, and Gay has had a happy day in the garden, a-weedin' and a-plantin', while I have been a-wrasslin' with our French tax forms, which are always such a pleasure at this time of year, whatever the weather.

If I manage to get in my planned walk home from Esperaza tomorrow, I will have walked over 100 kms this week, which is a decent amount for keeping the body ticking over.

One Year From Now ...

... I will have completed the first 30 kms of VBW, which will be the walk from Puivert to Mirepoix. This is a path I have followed many times, albeit in reverse. After Mirepoix, I will be in uncharted territory, where my feet have never trod.

15th May, 2010, is the scheduled start date. By this time of day I will have finished the day's walking. I hope the weather will be very much better than it is today. When I set out today from Lavelanet the temperature was 8 degrees Centigrade.

The first 14 of today's 22 kms are on the Voie Verte, the old railway line. I boarded the ghost train at Lavelanet station, and exited onto the road just before Chalabre. When I walk this same line from the other end, starting in Mirepoix, I can reach Chalabre (21 kms)without seeing a single person and rarely see more than two. It is usually a different story from Lavelanet. This end of the line passes close to many more habitations and I normally see several sets of dog-walkers and even one or two who can manage a walk without having something on a leash. Today was different. I had been on my own for 10 kms before I saw a solitary jogger, and that was the only person I saw before I reached home (barring some I saw whizzing past in cars or trucks). Is the recession affecting people's ability or willingness to walk?

I arrived home much quicker than I have done when walking this same route before. I must have been really pushing myself along, possibly in an unconscious desire to keep warm, although the last time was during the winter when it was even colder. It did make me realise that I normally do these long walks without a pause or a rest. I don't know whether that is a good or a bad thing, but I like to get the kilometres out of the way so I can live a normal life for the rest of the day. For instance, at the moment I am struggling with our French tax returns, which have to be submitted by the 29th of this month. Not forgetting the second set of forms, which are due on June 15th. I suppose I shall have to do them all a bit earlier next year.